On December 22nd during DongZhi, there is the tradition of eating dumplings. Dumplings, once a symbol of warmth and comfort during the deep winter, now seem increasingly commercialized and expensive, particularly in chain stores and food delivery services. This shift reflects less of the cherished tradition and more of a capital-driven venture, stripping away the essence of what made these foods special.
An explanation I came across sheds light on this transformation:
As young people in first-tier cities lament over soaring dumpling prices, a significant factor is the exorbitant operational costs, primarily driven by high rental fees. Consequently, dining out often equates to indirectly ‘paying the rent’.
But besides this aspects, there is something more.
The heart of the issue lies in the capital-driven nature of modern food businesses. In a landscape dominated by commercial models, the primary impulse for owners is revenue maximization. This goal manifests in two key strategies: reducing production costs, often leading to diminished food quantities, and inflating prices per consumer. The objective is to steadily build a business that can report substantial net income within a few years, paving the way for an Initial Public Offering (IPO). This process culminates in a financial windfall for investors, who typically cash out their stakes post-IPO, leaving the essence of the food – in this case, dumplings – as a mere commodity in the broader economic game. This shift from tradition to transaction marks a profound change in how we experience these cultural staples, turning what was once a symbol of warmth and community into another line item on a balance sheet.
Not a good news for me. So at least, I just ate hand-made dumplines at my school’s dining hall.
with my friend we ate at the dining hall. despite there was a long queue and, i gotta say, the dumplings are nice and the atmosphere was so lovely. we sat at a window seat, under the sun, spending time with great food and friend.